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Essential
Architecture- The Bund, Shanghai
The Russian Consulate |
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architect
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location
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Shanghai, China |
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date
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1896 |
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style
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vaguely
Flemish
Revival |
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construction
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masonry |
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type
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consulate |
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Above image ©Paul Pak-hing Lee - 1997
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View to Hongkou |
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The Russian consulate by Suzhou Creek. |
Shanghai Russians
The term Shanghai Russians refers to a sizable Russian diaspora
that flourished in Shanghai, China between the World Wars. By 1937 it is
estimated that there were as many as 25,000 anti-Bolshevik Russians
living in the city, the largest European group by far. Most of them had
come from the Russian Far East, where, with the support of the Japanese,
the Whites had maintained a presence as late as the autumn of 1922.
In the late 19th century, the Russian imperial government was
shifting the focus of its investment to Manchuria. As a consequence,
China's trade with its northern neighbour soared. As soon as there was a
regular ferry service between Vladivostok and Shanghai, the Russian tea
merchants started to settle in the commercial capital of China. About
350 Russian citizens resided within the Shanghai International
Settlement in 1905. In order to protect their interests, the Russian
Consulate was opened in 1896. The old building of the consulate, still
occupied by the Russian diplomats, ranks among the Bund's minor
landmarks.
The bulk of the Russian exile community relocated to Shanghai
from Vladivostok following the fall of the Provisional Priamurye
Government at the close of the Russian Civil War. Admiral Stark's
squadron alone brought several thousand White Russians from Vladivostok
in 1922. Many Harbin Russians, attracted by the booming economy of
Shanghai, moved from Manchuria to the coast over the following years.
Barred by both distance and money from joining established communities
in Paris and Berlin, a large number gravitated towards Shanghai, a
freeport at the time, requiring no visa or work-permit for entry. For
this same reason it was later to become a refuge for Jews fleeing the
Nazis.

A group of Russian émigrés arriving in Shanghai. A photograph
from the newspaper Shankhaiskaya zarya, 23 February, 1930.
Although free, and relatively secure, conditions for the émigrés were
far from ideal. For one thing they were all stateless, as the Soviet
government had revoked the citizenship of all political exiles in 1921.
The only travel document most of them had was the Nansen passport,
issued by the League of Nations. Unlike other foreigners in China they
did not have the benefits conferred by extraterritoriality, which
granted immunity from local laws, complex and almost impossible for
foreigners to understand.
This was made worse by the barriers to employment opportunities,
which in this international city required a good command of English as a
minimum requirement. There were whole families that depended on wives or
daughters who made a living as taxi dancers (hired dancing partners). A
League of Nations inquiry in 1935 also found that 22% of Russian women
aged between sixteen and forty-five in the city were involved in
prostitution. Others, both men and women, turned to crime. In 1929 the
British-run police force estimated that as much as 85% of the foreign
criminals in Shanghai were Russian.
Some did manage to make a go of things, teaching music or French.
Other women took work as dress-makers, shop assistants and hairdressers.
By slow degrees, and despite the many difficulties, the community not
only retained a good deal of cohesion but did begin to flourish, both
economically and culturally. By the mid 1930s there were two Russian
schools, as well as a variety of cultural and sporting clubs. There were
Russian-language newspapers and a radio station. An important part was
also played by the local Russian Orthodox Church under the guidance of
St. John of Shanghai and San Francisco.

The cover of Vladimir Zhiganov's album The Russians in Shanghai
(1936).
Many exiles set up restaurants in the district known as Little Russia,
and Russian musicians (such as Oleg Lundstrem) achieved a dominance over
the city's foreign-run orchestra. The most famous Russian singer,
Alexander Vertinsky, relocated from Paris to Shanghai; and Fyodor
Chaliapin was seen on tour. Vladimir Tretchikoff, the "King of Kitsch",
spent his youth in the city. Russian teachers offered lessons in theatre
and dancing. Margot Fonteyn, the English ballerina, studied dance in
Shanghai as a child with Russian masters, one of whom, George Gontcharov,
had formely danced with the Bolshoi in Moscow.
But it was the contribution that Russian women made to the
entertainment industry, dancing and otherwise, that gave the city its
exotic reputation, noted in the guidebooks of the day. Many sought a way
out through connections with foreigners, either as marriage partners or
as mistresses. A fictionalized portrayal of their predicament is
presented in the James Ivory film The White Countess (2005). Those who
were left became the focus of earnest campaigns by the League of Nations
and others to end the "white slave trade."

Pushkin monument in Shanghai
The Shanghai Russians survived through the difficult days of the
Japanese occupation, but left in the end with the advance of the
Communists. They were forced to flee, first to a refugee camp on the
island of Tubabao in the Philippines and then mainly to the United
States and Australia. The Russian monuments of Shanghai did not escape
the ravages of the Cultural Revolution. The Pushkin statue, funded by
public subscription and unveiled on the centenary of the poet's death,
was smashed by the Red Guards in 1966. It was subsequently restored in
1987, and remains the only monument to a foreign writer in China. The
Orthodox Cathedral of St. Nicholas, consecrated and elaborately frescoed
in 1933, was converted into a washing machine factory, and is now a
restaurant.
References
Anatol M. Kontenev, The Status of the Russian Emigrants
in China, in The American Journal of International Law, vol. 28, 1934,
pp562-565.
Frederic Wakeman, Policing Shanghai, 1927-1937.
Marcia Reynders Ristaino, Port of Last Resort: The Diaspora
Communities of Shanghai; in Slavic Review, 2003, vol. 62, part 4.
Robert Bickers, Empire Made Me: An Englishman Adrift in Shanghai.
Allen Lane/Penguin Books, 2003. ISBN: 0713996846.
Stella Dong, Shanghai: The Rise and Fall of a Decadent City,
1842-1949.
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links
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http://web.utk.edu/~plee3/shanghai.html
http://www.simonfieldhouse.com/shanghai.htm
(Russian) Website of the Russian
Club in Shanghai
(Russian) Shanghai
Branch of the Russian Diaspora, a Russian article by a Chinese historian
(Russian) Russian Community
in Shanghai, by A. Khisamutdinov |
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www.essential-architecture.com
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