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Essential
Architecture- Peking
Simatai Section of the Great Wall
(World Heritage Site) |
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architect
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location
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Simatai, near Beijing / Peking, China |
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date
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mid-6th century |
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style
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Ming Dynasty |
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construction
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stone |
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type
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protective wall |
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Simatai, a section of the Great Wall of China located in the north of
Miyun county, 120 km northeast of Beijing, holds the access to Gubeikou,
a strategic pass in the eastern part of the Great Wall. Originally built
during the Northern Qi dynasty (550-577) and rebuilt in the Hongwu years
of the Ming dynasty by Qi Jiguang, this section of Great Wall is one of
the few to retain the original features of the Ming dynasty Great Wall.
Simatai Great Wall is 5.4 km long with 35 beacon towers.
Ingeniously conceived and uniquely designed, this section of Great Wall,
inimitable and diversified, has incorporated the different
characteristics of each section of the Great Wall. No wonder the famous
specialist of Great Wall, Professor Luo Zhewen, says: "The Great Wall is
the best of the Chinese buildings, and Simatai is the best of the Great
Wall." UNESCO has designated Simatai Great Wall as one of the World
Cultural Heritage sites.
Hanging precariously onto the Yanshan Mountain, Simatai Great
Wall is known for its steepness, ingenuity and uniqueness.
Simatai Great Wall is separated by a valley into eastern and
western parts. The western part appears gentle with 20 well-preserved
watchtowers dotting along the wall. The eastern part is much steeper,
following more rugged terrain that includes cliff edges and kilometre-high
peaks. The 15 watchtowers are relatively closely spaced and provide
spectacular views. Main attractions in the eastern part include Watching
Beijing Tower, Fairy Tower, Heavenly Ladder and Sky Bridge, though they
are currently closed to the public for safety reasons.
Watching Beijing Tower: At an elevation of 986 meters, it is
regarded as the summit of the Simatai Great Wall as well as the highest
cultural relic in Beijing. Its name comes from the fact that at night
(with good visibility), one can see the lights of Beijing shimmering in
the distance 120 km away. More interesting is that the bricks used to
built the walls here even stamped with the date on which they were made
and the code numbers of the armies that made them.
Fairy Tower: With a sculpture of twin lotus flowers above the
arched doors, it is considered by many to be the most beautiful of all
towers and is known for its exquisite architecture. Legend goes that it
was the dwelling place for an antelope reincarnated in the form of an
angel who fell in love with a shepherd.
Heavenly Ladder: Climbing the mountainside at a steep 80-degree
gradient, the Heavenly Ladder is the way to Watching Beijing Tower and
the Fairy Maiden Tower. Stretching upward along the abrupt mountain
ridges, the narrowest part is just half a meter wide.
Sky Bridge: As little as 40 centimeters wide in places, this
100-meter long segment of the wall connects the Fairy Tower to Watching
Beijing Tower. It is said that only brave man can traverse the Sky
Bridge.
Goats played an important role in building this section of the
Great Wall on such precarious mountain ridge centuries ago, with each
goat carrying a single brick to the top on each trip. Ironically, goats
also played an equally important role in its dismay centuries later
after its construction. Peasants residing near the site raised goats to
generate extra income, and the goats eat the vegetation that protects
the soil around the wall from erosion. In order to protect and recover
the vegetation, the Chinese government banned the local population from
raising goats, but peasants protested, claiming that the governmental
compensation was not enough, and that they do not receive any benefits
from the tourism. Many peasants also blame low compensation on
corruption, a controversy that remains to this date. The ban did,
however, greatly help the recovery of the local vegetation
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Simatai, China
Simatai probably has to be the best place to visit the Great
Wall, it is east of the Janshanlang part of the wall. Simatai is quite
quiet compared to the overcrowed stretch at Badaling. There is a very
nice lodge near by callled the Simatai Great Wall International Youth
Hostel
A popular trek is from Janshanlang to Simatai, its around 6 mile
and is quite a challenging walk, but can be accomplished by a complete
novice. There are many parts to be careful of, due to disrepair there
are lots of loose bricks and rubble. Reconstruction is underway with
much already finished.
The views over the valley at Simatai are spectactulary
breathtaking, and if this walk does indeed tire you out you can catch a
flying fox ride to the bottom.
The Simatai stretch is the most calm and quiet part, within a
days traveling from Beijing. It is 80 miles north east of Beijing, being
quite far away is the main reason that there is not enormous crowds of
hapless tourists. The damage and disrepair to this part of the wall
helps declare its authenticity and has earned it the reputation of being
the most beautiful stretch of the Great Wall.
Badaling and Mutianyu have undergone extreme restoration, and
most parts have been rebuilt to a greater magnitude than the original
wall! This part of the wall is still pretty untouched and is the obvious
choice to see the original wall.
The damage here is very much expected considering the wall was
built in the Ming dynasty 500 years ago. It was this stretch of the wall
that UNESCO visited which granted it the rights of a World Heritage
site, this makes the local people very proud.
This section still retains most of its original features and
characteristics from 500 years ago. Offering the adventurous traveller
the irristable challenge of walking along the hazardous passage and one
of the highest parts of the Great Wall which at parts seems to
precariously hang over the edge of the mountain.
Military architecture enthusiasts, will find many parts of
interest to study as the wall finds its way along around 6 miles East to
West seemilngly uninterrupted over the crests of the mountain, the only
part which interrupts is the presence of water resorvoir that divides it
in two.
Along this stretch those that are interested in architecture can
acutely study the immense range of watchtowers, and blockhouses. Which
is a good representaive sample of the many styles of towers found along
the Great Wall.
Tourists have two places where they can acess the Great Wall. The
first place would be at Simatai itself, secondly a bit further along at
Jinshanling. The majority of tourists seemed to take the walk from
Jinshanling to Simatai. My self personally started at Simatai and took
the hike up to the Simatai Ridge. Generally you will only be able to do
the one stretch as it is quite a climb and of considerable distance.
Jinshanling to Simatai is quite a bit easier than the climb up to
Simatai ridge. But depending on time you may not be able to do both, so
if your up to it take the trek up to Simatai Ridge. The view is amazing.
Along this part of the Great Wall, there are 16 watchtowers. It
took just under 2 hours to get to about the 12 watch tower and probably
the same again to get to the 16th! As it is after here that the Great
Wall gets hard to climb, i was often on all fours stravagasted by its
sheer gradient. I have to say that looking back down at some of these
points was pretty scary, and would have to be seen to be believed. This
is not a climb for the feint hearted.
Just before the second to last watchtower is the steepest part of
the wall, or should I say half wall. As here it is at least 80 degrees
in gradient and only has one side to it, with a sheer drop of the other
side. The wall is half the width as further down and has quite a bit of
loose stones so be careful. At this stretch of the wall surely the
natural terrain of the land would have been enough to defend against
invasion, when you get there you will see that it would have been almost
impossible for an army to have come over this part. This part of the
wall is called the 'Stairway to Heaven' due to obvious reasons, and the
second to last watch tower is called 'The Fairy Tower'. Im not sure if
its because you would need to be a fairy to get up there everyday, or
because this is what you would be if you fell off! But it is most
definatly worth the hazardous climb as this is one of the most
interesting watchtowers as it contains sculptures of twin lotus flowers
on the doorways, and other features.
And now for the hardest part but the most worthwhile the climb to
the 16th Watchtower. There is a sign which tells you not to go any
further, and I have been told that at peek season it may be guarded.
This was the most obscure part of the climb, as at this tower there is a
ice cream stand! With a freezer and generator! How they got it up there
I have no idea!! Only the most hardcore of hikers will be able to make
this part (me of course being one of them), the last tower stands at
986m which is 3235 feet high. It is called the 'Wang Jing Lou' which
translates to the Watching Beijing Tower. This is the highest peek in
Bejing, and the views are tremendous. I would have loved to seen it at
night where I could have seen the city, but thats for next time.
How to get there
You can get there by two public routes: You can take the
Si Ma Tai bus from the Dong Zhi Men long distance bus station in
Beijing, which will take you to Miyun County and you then have to catch
a mini bus which will take you directly there. Alternatively the number
12 Tourist bus will take you there from either the Xuan Wu Men or Dong
Si Shi Tiao stops. Buses do leave as late as 8am to get there, however
if taking the bus I strongly recommend to get the first bus at 6am.
The quickest route and easiest has to be a taxi. However be
careful of many touts trying to book you out for the whole day and they
would take you to 5 places. 5 places!!!! You really only have time for
the wall, unless your really fast climbing the wall and then you can
always do something on the way back.
However after I consulted all the possible routes, I ended up
taking an arranged trip with the youth hostel I stayed at. So if your
not staying in one it may be worth popping into a few to see when there
trips run if they are not full.
Please remember to be careful when climbing the wall as it is
extremely steep in parts, and yes you will have to go on all fours. So
for this reason make sure that you are wearing sturdy footwear and loose
clothing. If your going there in the winter remember it will be
extremely cold at the top so make sure that you have suffient clothing
and gloves.
And of course make sure to get your valid Chinese visa which
bizarrely must have an empty left hand page if not they WILL return your
passport back to you.
The Simatai Great Wall International Youth Hostel which is an
excellent place to stay in Simatai if your wanting a longer trek along
the wall. You can book the Simatai Lodge directly from below.
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links
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Special thanks to
http://www.code-d.com/china/beijing.php |
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www.essential-architecture.com
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